Thanks for watching, this video shows how to diagnose the most common issues that will cause a dryer not to start. This video is for simple electric dryers, with a mechanical timer.

This Kenmore Elite Dryer was having trouble with mode selection; the buttons were stuck and would not switch between different modes. It would beep randomly, and many of the buttons on the dryer would not work. It would run, but only in one setting. We were able to remove the ribbon from the user interface and control board on the dryer and clean it with electrical cleaner, so that the signal now goes back and forth without error.

​If your refrigerator is not running at all, you hear no fans running and there is no cooling happening in the fridge or freezer, you may have a faulty defrost timer. We show you how to check the defrost timer by using a screwdriver to manually override the switch. If you can do this, then you need to replace the timer. You can find these on Amazon. We also show you how to test the cold control, which is basically a thermostat that you can check with a multi-meter.

We’ll walk you through what to check first to identify that the problem is occurring at your refrigerator compressor.

​Check to make sure that the refrigerator has power. Feel the refrigerator compressor to see if it is running with your hand. the compressor should be warm or hot, and it should vibrate. If the refrigerator is warm, and the compressor is cold, you could have a problem with the components that are used to start the compressor. A 3-n-1 start kit replaces the old relay, capacitor, and overload protector – and can help kickstart your compressor. This is a cheap and easy repair that may save your fridge for a long time. If you have a bad compressor, this repair won’t last long and you’ll have to toss your fridge.

​Thanks for watching our DIY Videos.

​In this video we show you how to replace the agitator dogs. You may have noticed that your clothes aren’t as clean, or they are in the same position that you left them, meaning the agitator didn’t tumble them over and clean them properly. Replace the plastic agitator dogs and you should be good as new.

Thanks for watching our DIY Videos.

Ever experienced this error code on your dishwasher? Could be your exhaust fan. Watch this to learn how to diagnose this problem.

​We repaired this KitchenAid Mixer by replacing the worm gear and completely cleaning out the transmission housing. Be sure to check all of the gears, remove any chipped or broken pieces and replace them, then liberally re-grease the transmission and worm gear. Thanks for watching.

​This washer was throwing an EbE error code, upon examining the control board, there was a burnt mark where the relay had blown. You can fix this by soldering the connection and restoring the control boards interface.

Have you experience a nasty corrosion problem on your brand new washer? Within a couple of years, bleach can settle in the tray and begin to rust away your machine, use this fix to stop that rust and make your washer look like new again!

​Thanks for watching our DIY videos. Check out our other videos for diagnostics and DIY fixes.

​This kegerator was accumulating ice from an air leak created during installation of the taps. We solved that problem, and you can too. Thanks for watching!

This Roper washer was not agitating or spinning. There was a loud rattling coming from the bottom, if you hear this and have a similar problem, it could be your transmission coupling. In this case, our coupling had rounded itself out, along with the motor spindle, requiring a replacement of both.

​You may be able to diagnose your problem by watching this video and then looking at the back of your motor where the coupling mates with the transmission. You could actually see the spindle rotating freely.

If you have a front-load LG Washer that flashes an “IE” error code, you could have a problem with water inlet system or water fill level. Check to make sure there are no obstructions in either the soap dispensing tray or the inlet valve screens.  Once clear, try running an empty load with a cup of vinegar to break apart any remaining debris.

​Remember to turn the water off and unplug the machine when you’re working on it.

If you have a GE Washer that begins the wash cycle but will not agitate, the problem could be the agitator coupling. Check to make sure that the basket spins during the drain cycle, as this indicates the motor and transmission are likely operating correctly.

​There’s a trick to removing the GE agitators in washers that can save you a trip from the repair guy. You will need a thin but sturdy piece of rope or strap for this repair.

Always unplug the machine when you’re working on it.

If you have a front-load washer, this is something you should be aware of. Many units come with a Stainless Steel inner drum which is matted to an Aluminum support assembly, also known as a “spider.” The problem occurs when you have too much soap running in your machine over an extended period of time. The soapy solution tends to be very basic and will react with the aluminum backing plate forming corrosion much like you would find around battery terminals. Eventually the plate gets degraded like the one shown in our video and can lead to further damage inside your washer.

​To prolong your machine’s lifespan you should occasionally run a cycle with no clothes and no soap. This will give the washer a chance to rinse out any residue buildup behind the drum. There are also various cleaners sold specifically for front-load washing machines that can be purchased online or at your local hardware store.

​You are looking at the back of an opened clothes dryer – you can see all the burn marks at the terminals. Yes, you can make the dryer work temporarily, but at what cost? This is how homes burn down. Btw, this looks like multiple attempts at keeping this dryer running. Yikes…

FYI – the most likely cause of dryer fuses going out is trapped lint. Before replacing fuses, clean your lint trap in soapy water, check the dryer duct for obstructions (the metal tubing exiting the dryer), and check the duct exit (outside of your home) to make sure it isn’t blocked by a bird’s nest or something else. Once you get the machine running again, check the exit vent again to make sure you see plenty of air flowing out of it. If not, the trapped lint may be stuck in the internal duct work of the dryer. Turn the machine off to avoid blowing another fuse and ask for help, if you need it.

Whatever you do, do not bypass fuses…

If you have a front-load washer that’s not turning on, the problem can range from a tripped breaker, to a burned out fuse, to something not worth repairing at all. Here are a few things you can check.

​Steps:
1) Make sure the machine is plugged in.
2) Locate the main power panel on your house to see if any breakers have been thrown. If so, flip them the opposite direction.
3) If you are still not receiving power to the washer, try plugging another device into the same outlet. If the alternate device powers on, then you know it’s a problem with the washer, and most likely the fuse in the control board.
4) We want you to check one specific area before you decide to call a repair technician or try it yourself – check to see if the stainless steel drum inside wobbles, when you hold the plastic tub in place. *Note – there will be some movement of the whole drum/tub structure based on support/suspension springs, but the tub and drum should be sturdy.
5) If you do find that the drum is moving freely while hold the plastic tub stable, the mounting assembly for the steel drum has broken. Replacement is a big job. Combined with replacement of the control board (where the fuse is located and what caused the fuse to fail), you are looking at $500+ in parts alone. Junk the washer.
6) If this is not the case, then something else in the machine caused the fuse to fail. DO NOT replace the fuse, or control board, until the fault is determined, or you will likely blow the fuse again. It’s best to call a technician to troubleshoot the problem.

​If you have a GE Profile refrigerator that is not cooling/freezing due to flood damage, take a look at the most likely cause. You can do this check without a multimeter, but a multimeter would confirm the failure. Before you try to work on it, UNPLUG IT!

​Steps:
1) Has the fridge been plugged in for a few hours? Yes – go to step 2.
2) Open the freezer door, and see if the light turns on. Congrats – you have power to the machine. (If your lights have burned out, the fridge could still have power. Listen for any noises inside. You should hear a fan blowing (evaporator fan). (If not, then this video will not help – you have more serious problems.)
3) If you hear the evaporator fan, then the compressor should be running.
4) Slide the fridge out so you can get access to the back and remove the cover at the base. You’ll need a 5/16 nut driver.
5) Is the fan behind the back cover spinning? This is the condenser fan. It is on a parallel circuit with the evaporator fan and the compressor. If it’s running, then the compressor should be running.
6) Is the compressor running? Feel if it’s hot and almost uncomfortable to touch for more than a few seconds. It should be vibrating a little and making a little humming noise. If it’s not, and your fridge/freezer is warm, the most likely culprit is a burned out AC inverter attached to your compressor.

Please note, look for any corrosion around electrical wiring, and clean it with emery cloth or sandpaper, if you feel comfortable doing that (Make sure the power is off). Also, understand that the condenser fan motor may have been damaged as well… it would be the second thing to go. Those are the main components that would have issues due to flood damage of 6 inches or so of water. In many cases, they are reparable – especially considering the cost of a new one.