If you have a GE Profile refrigerator that is not cooling/freezing due to flood damage, take a look at the most likely cause. You can do this check without a multimeter, but a multimeter would confirm the failure. Before you try to work on it, UNPLUG IT!
1) Has the fridge been plugged in for a few hours? Yes – go to step 2.
2) Open the freezer door, and see if the light turns on. Congrats – you have power to the machine. (If your lights have burned out, the fridge could still have power. Listen for any noises inside. You should hear a fan blowing (evaporator fan). (If not, then this video will not help – you have more serious problems.)
3) If you hear the evaporator fan, then the compressor should be running.
4) Slide the fridge out so you can get access to the back and remove the cover at the base. You’ll need a 5/16 nut driver.
5) Is the fan behind the back cover spinning? This is the condenser fan. It is on a parallel circuit with the evaporator fan and the compressor. If it’s running, then the compressor should be running.
6) Is the compressor running? Feel if it’s hot and almost uncomfortable to touch for more than a few seconds. It should be vibrating a little and making a little humming noise. If it’s not, and your fridge/freezer is warm, the most likely culprit is a burned out AC inverter attached to your compressor.
Please note, look for any corrosion around electrical wiring, and clean it with emery cloth or sandpaper, if you feel comfortable doing that (Make sure the power is off). Also, understand that the condenser fan motor may have been damaged as well… it would be the second thing to go. Those are the main components that would have issues due to flood damage of 6 inches or so of water. In many cases, they are reparable – especially considering the cost of a new one.